Comments on: A Climbing Story

By: Richard

Richard — Sun, 28 Sep 2008 03:49:21 +0000

Nicole: I don’t think I knew Jeff personally, only by reputation. That might not be correct but it’s what I remember. He might have been hanging out at the columns when I was there (mid ’70s to mid ’80s) but I’m not sure.

Maybe we ought to make a cast or characters in this thread, a who’s who in Oregon and Columns climbing over the years. Even though this is my blog, I was never really anybody of consequence in the climbing scene. I did lots of the infamous climbs but so did many people in my time.

I do remember it as a special time to be into climbing though and the camaraderie was wonderful. I’ll never forget that.

By: Nicole Clowry (nee Elphinston)

Nicole Clowry (nee Elphinston) — Sat, 27 Sep 2008 14:06:27 +0000

Hi Richard,
My name is Nicole Clowry, I am the niece of Jeff Ephinston who I noticed you commented on a few years back.
I was not born when Jeff passed away but have grown up knowing about him through my father Bob, Jeff’s older brother by about two years.
I would love to hear about what contact you had with Jeff all of those years ago. It was very exciting to see his name mentioned online.
It was a pleasure to read your post. I look forward to hearing back from you.
Best Wishes Nicole.

By: Richard

Richard — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 11:58:28 +0000

David: Great that you found this story and thread. Every time someone comments here it brings back fond memories for me too, it was a very special time with some great climbers and great characters and I’m glad I got to experience a bit of it. Yes, the pioneers did amazing things with Goldline rope, hand-placed pitons and “klettershoes.”

By: David Adkins

David Adkins — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 04:34:53 +0000

I really enjoyed reading this story. The picture of the climbers in 1975 brought back memories. That very same year I began to climb at age 17. A Physical Education instructor at South Eugene high school was a climber and offered a rock climbing class for PE credit. It was a blast, and definitely my favorite PE course. Many of the names in your account are familiar to me and some of them are acquaintences. I have a high regard for the early climbers who pioneerd many of legendary climbs of Oregon using non sticky climbing shoes, passive pro and a lot of grit and courage.
Thanks

By: Richard

Richard — Thu, 24 Jan 2008 15:02:15 +0000

Steve: Barad Dur was in my old Oregon Climbing Guide so my guess it’s in newer ones. Mine’s from the ’70s.

By: Steve Wolford

Steve Wolford — Wed, 23 Jan 2008 21:25:33 +0000

I stumbled on this blog, and just wanted to comment regarding Jim Anglin. Jim has done a tremendous amount of new route developement in the last few years in secrect at some great crags near Mt Hood. I have had the privledge to do many of them, and some really stellar routes. Jim was a class act, and just as I started to get to know him, he is gone. Sad times but his routes live on and in time will get recognition.
Also, I would live to do Barad-dur, where would I get the beta for it now?

By: Richard

Richard — Sun, 18 Nov 2007 14:47:32 +0000

Amazing Chris, and I’m sorry it took the death of a friend to make the re-connection.

It’s wonderful to hear that many of that group that I was part of at The Columns has continued to climb and has done it together. There is nothing like the camaraderie of old friends.

Free Barad-dur? I can hardly imagine climbing it period, which I did following John Rich before I left Oregon in the early ’80s. Gad, you must still be lean and strong.

Maybe some of you who still live in the area should organize a big get together where those of us who met at the Columns might get together, like a high school reunion. If I had enough lead time I’d come to something like that and my guess is others would too. We could all bring short slide shows and show them like a Pecha Kucha session (20 slides, 20 seconds each).

Great to hear from you Chris, please say hi to anyone I might know from the old days.

By: chris fralick

chris fralick — Sun, 18 Nov 2007 05:45:37 +0000

Hey Richard !
I just discovered your website today through Gary kirk !
I was very close to Jim anglin we climbed , hiked , traveled ,climbed
hung together ,and climbed some more for the last 25yrs.In oregon
alot at the ‘menagerie’,Wolf Rock,flagstone,the east caves in the
coburg hills , etc. . Also in numerous adventure areas in many other
states . I will say 2 things; 1;some of the best days of my life , on
or off rock,were spent in the company of this friend and 2 ; on my
50th birthday ( his 50th yr also )he red pointed his new route’ Big
Bad Wolf ‘5.11c then we set a new speed record on ‘Barad-Dur ‘
climbing it all free to the summit in 3hrs. 6mns. We topped out at
1:30 pm. (He returned 1 month later with Kent Bennesh and did it
again but in 2hrs. 28mns.!!) We sat on the summit eating oranges
and laughing that we were the oldest to climb it , the 1st Grand
Parents to climb it and the fastest . Whata day ! He is and will be missed greatly by all who’s lives he touched.
PS for you richard ,I had my 30th ascent of Barad-dur this August.
It would be great to here from you . ciao Chris Fralick

By: Richard

Richard — Fri, 16 Nov 2007 23:42:25 +0000

I got another note from Pete Pollard on Jim Anglin’s memorial service:

I went to Jim’s memorial yesterday in Lebanon. There were probably several hundred people there and it was a full fire department event. So there were a lot of climber types and about a third of the people were firemen in uniform. Very good event. It was nice to hear about parts of Jim’s life I wasn’t familiar with. He was a fire captain and worked there 28 years. His kids and grandkids were there too.

I saw a lot of guys I hadn’t seen in decades, some I recognized and others I had to ask their names ‘cause they looked familiar. Good to see so many people from back in the day, just too bad it takes a death to make it happen.

Mike Hartley made it in and there were plenty of people from Bend. Even Freddy made it in from Florence. The Fralick brothers are unchanged but everyone’s a little older and grayer.

Jim had a well lived life.

By: Richard

Richard — Wed, 07 Nov 2007 11:29:49 +0000

I just received a sad note from my old climbing buddy Pete Pollard (in photo above).

Hi Richard

It’s just unfortunate that my first note to you in years is about the death of Jim Anglin. He was descending a climbers trail into the Gorge at Smith Rock when he slipped and fell about a hundred feet to his death. John Rich and another climber were a few yards ahead of him when it happened.

I’ve always admired Jim’s climbing ability and it’s so ironic that a slip like that cost him his life. He’s been retired from work for a number of years, living in White Salmon and windsurfing, skiing and climbing. I hadn’t seen him in ages but we kept in touch indirectly with our common friends.

I have lots of great memories of climbing with Jim. Even a cold overnight bivvy on the descent of the Steck-Salathe’ was enjoyable with Jim’s company.

Pete Pollard