My Camera Gear
Monday, November 12th, 2007
Last update Tuesday, July 29, 2008
This is my current collection of camera gear. It isn’t meant to show off or intimidate, simply to give those of you who are following my photography an overview of what I have and use and why. I’ve accumulated this gear over many years. My style of photography is generally slower and more studio-like than most and you can see that in the types of pictures I take. Read this list accordingly. I have many small accessories not listed here. I may get around to adding them at the end as an addendum. You may want to revisit this post or track it with RSS.
Canon EOS 5D
The Canon 5D is the 3rd DSLR body I’ve had and it is by far the best. I started with the original Canon 300D (Digital Rebel), upgraded to the Canon EOS 20D and finally moved to the Canon 5D to take advantage of its full frame, low noise sensor.
The 5D is now a bit long in the tooth for a DSLR and there is talk of an upgrade for it coming soon. What I’d like in an upgrade is the sensor dust removal system that all of Canon’s other cameras are now sporting. No doubt it will have this and more. However, I remain totally pleased with the Canon 5D.
My flickr images tagged Canon EOS 5D
More Resources: Canon, Wikipedia, Reviewed at The Digital Picture, Reviewed at Fred Miranda, B&H Photo
Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM
Having a fast (f/2.8) zoom that zooms through 50mm gives me an extremely useful lens for all sorts of things. 24mm on a full frame camera is quite wide without showing much barrel distortion and at 70mm this lens has a “macro mode” which isn’t true macro but will focus quite close. This lens is quite heavy as many lenses with f/2.8 apertures are but because it takes the place of many prime lenses the weight is worth carrying.
Generally zoom lenses are less sharp and have worse color than prime (single focal length lenses) but this lens is one of the few exceptions to that rule: it’s both sharp and has excellent color.
Note that higher quality zoom lenses have a single aperture throughout the zoom range, either f/2.8 or f/4.
This lens takes 77mm filters and so it shares filters with my 300mm f/4. I keep a B+W UV filter on it all the time but share a B+W circular polarizer.
My flickr images tagged Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM
More Resources: Canon, Wikipedia, Reviewed at The Digital Picture, Reviewed at Fred Miranda, B&H Photo
Canon EF 35mm f/1.4L USM
This prime lens is considered one of the best lenses Canon makes. It is fast, sharp, relatively light weight, and on a full frame camera a 35mm focal length provides a field of view that is useful for many things. At f/1.4 this lens can take pictures in near darkness with no flash. When I’m sure I won’t need to zoom and might need something faster than f/2.8 I use this lens instead of my 24-70.
This lens takes 72mm filters and so it shares filters with my 135mm. I keep a B+W UV filter on it all the time but share a B+W circular polarizer.
My flickr images tagged Canon EF 35mm f/1.4L USM
More Resources: Canon, Wikipedia, Reviewed at The Digital Picture, Reviewed at Fred Miranda, B&H Photo
Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM
This lens is the only non “L” lens in my collection yet it produces images that rival lenses that cost double and triple its cost. I wrote a detailed review of this lens and macro photography in general here: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM and Macro Photography. This is a spectacular macro lens and has served me well.
My flickr images tagged Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM
More Resources: Canon, Wikipedia, Reviewed at The Digital Picture, Reviewed at Fred Miranda, B&H Photo
Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM
This medium telephoto is the perfect compliment to the 35mm lens above, it’s relatively light, very sharp with super fast autofocus and is great for portraits where you need some distance. It works quite well with the 1.4x extender giving it almost 200mm of reach and only dropping the aperture to f/2.8.
This lens takes 72mm filters and so it shares filters with my 35mm. I keep a B+W UV filter on it all the time but share a B+W circular polarizer.
My flickr images tagged Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM
More Resources: Canon, Wikipedia, Reviewed at The Digital Picture, Reviewed at Fred Miranda, B&H Photo
Canon EF 300mm f/4L IS USM
I got this lens because I wanted something that would allow me to not only catch birds but also compress objects in still life shots. This lens may be the sharpest in my collection with very fast auto focus and Image stabilization so that it can be hand held more easily. I usually use it on a tripod and it comes with a tripod ring collar so that it mounts on the tripod and the camera hangs off the back of the lens. It’s lens hood is built in and slides in and out.
This lens takes 77mm filters and so it shares filters with my 24-70mm lens. I keep a B+W UV filter on it all the time but share a B+W circular polarizer.
My flickr images tagged Canon EF 300mm f/4L IS USM
More Resources: Canon, Wikipedia, Reviewed at The Digital Picture, Reviewed at Fred Miranda, B&H
Canon EF Extender 1.4x II
This extender sits between certain lenses and the body giving the lenses 1.4x more reach. Using it also drops their aperture by 1 stop. If you need just a bit more reach than 300mm and don’t want to buy a 400mm lens, this may be just the ticket. I use it on my 135mm and 300mm lenses.
My flickr images tagged Canon EF Extender 1.4x II
More Resources: Canon, Review at The Digital Picture, Reviewed at Fred Miranda, B&H
Canon Remote Switch RS-80N3
This electronic cable release is an essential part of both macro photography and most photography with a long lens on a tripod. It is used to prevent camera vibration when the shutter release button is pushed.
More Resources: B&H
Canon 430EX Speedlite E-TTL II Shoe-Mount Flash
This is a hotshoe flash which on the Canon 5D is a necessity as the camera does not have a built in flash. Profesional cameras don’t include built in flashes because professionals tend to use off-camera lighting equipment. Even putting a flash on top of the camera like this one sits will eliminate red-eye and other problems caused by having the flash too close to the lens.
More Resources: Canon, Wikipedia, Review at The Digital Picture, B&H
Induro C214 Carbon 8X C-Series Tripod
At this level, tripods are sold a la carte so this is just legs, no head. I’ve had numerous tripods, Bogens, Gitzos and now this Induro. I hope to write a detailed review of how to buy and use tripods at some point but until then here is what I like about this one: carbon fiber material is light yet absorbs vibration, 4 leg sections allow it to collapse small enough so that I can more easily take it with me and it’s heavy enough to be stable, light enough to carry easily. This tripod will hold any of my gear safely. The center column has a hook at its base (copied from Gizto) which allows hanging a camera bag to make things more stable. The legs will spread extremely wide. Comes with a bag, strap, and toolkit. This tripod is an excellent value and a very nice tool.
Really Right Stuff BH-40 LR Ball head
A Ball head attaches to the top of the center post of the tripod legs and is just one of many types of heads one can attach to a tripod. Ball heads tend to be preferred by professionals because they are relatively light, not too bulky, and allow precision movement of photo gear both in a studio and in the field.
Ball heads consist of the ball and controls for it (drag and lock), a panning lock, and a clamp. The clamp holds the plate which is attached to the bottom of the camera. Really Right Stuff clamps are the best in the business and they can be added to Ball heads from other manufacturers. These clamps and their plates are all made to work with any Arca Swiss style equipment. They do not work with Bogen or Gitzo clamps and/or plates.
I’ve had numerous Ball heads including the infamous Arca Swiss B1 (which is spectacular but heavy). This Ball head is small, light, yet has very well designed and machined controls for easy use, both in a studio and in the field.
Really Right Stuff BH-40 LR Ball head
Really Right Stuff Canon 5D mount plate
Attaches to bottom of camera so that it can be set into the clamp. What differentiates RRS plates is that they are built for specific cameras and have a back edge that prevents their rotation. Once they are secured on the camera, no amount of twisting of the camera on the tripod will loosen them.
Really Right Stuff Canon 5D mount plate
Really Right Stuff lens mount plate
Attaches to the bottom of a lens ring, in this case two of my lenses: 70-200mm f/2.8 and 300mm f/4 so that they can be set into the clamp. What differentiates RRS plates is that they are built for specific lens rings and have a back edge that prevents their rotation. Once they are secured on the lens ring, no amount of twisting of the camera/lens on the tripod will loosen them.
Really Right Stuff Canon 300mm lens mount plate
More Resources
Canon EF lens mount at Wikipedia
Zoom lens at Wikipedia
Prime lens at Wikipedia
LowPro Mini Trekker AW
LowePro Micro Trekker 200 Pack
What?? Are you trying to make me switch??? As if I need more gear to purchase!! Argh. hahah
Thanks for the writeup. This’ll be good info in case I do switch.
Looks like a well thought out package! Even though I have zooms I always end up using primes, and I’ve been contemplating adding the 135mm. The 35mm is my favorite so far. I’m very happy with the current 5D (I only wish it were faster). It’s a great camera to grow in to as one’s photography skills improve.
Greg: Naw, you do great with what you have now. It’s not about the gear, it’s about what you do with it (as I know you know).
Andrew: it’s more like a snapshot of one stage of a messy and rather expensive process. I’ve bought and sold three of these lenses a few times, ending up with them again and as my style becomes clearer (to me) it’s easier to add things and get rid of others.
The one lens still on my B&H wish list is the Canon 16-35mm f/2.8 L. There are times when 24mm just isn’t wide enough, even on a full frame 5D and that lens would be just the ticket. If I were making a trip to Europe or Japan or to a national park in the US I’d buy it tomorrow.
Richard, that 16 -35 f2.8 L would work beautifully in the Macricostas too. You need one!
You are correct my friend. It’s not the camera. BUT… I’m yearning for full frame.
Question: Is that ball head worth the price tag? I have a trigger head, not sure off the top of my head what brand, I think it’s a bogen. I’m curious what the advantages are to the ball head you have. What I don’t like about my trigger ball head is that it seems to stick on me alot. That’s frustrating.
Gary: I do need one… everything comes to those who wait…
Greg: I know the Bogen head you have and it’s fine, very easy to use. The problem with it as I remember is that when you release it there is little or no tension so pulling the trigger allows total movement and then releasing locks things.
Ball heads with tension controls work a bit differently: one knob sets the tension based on the weight and mass of the camera and lens and the other knob locks things down. When things are loose you can move the camera around freely but stiffly so it can’t flop over. This way you can nudge it into a more exact position, then twist the locking knob (or lever) to lock things down.
Note that the Bogen jaw/plate system is different from the RRS/Arca system so if you got this head you’d need some new plates too.
RRS has a generous return policy so you can always return it if it’s not for you.
The other (expensive) head to try out is the Arca Swiss Z1 (replacement for the B1). It’s the gold standard in tension control. It is, however, heavy. My friend Gary (above) has one and loves it.
I looked to see what my model is. It’s the Bogen-Manfrotto 322RC2 Horizontal Grip Action Ball Head with RC2 Rapid Connect Plate and I use it on a Bogen-Manfrotto 3021BPRO tripod.
As you noted, squeeze the trigger and you release the tension. I like that especially since the trigger is big (I don’t have to remove my eye from the VF to find it), but sometimes releasing it doesn’t release ALL the tension and it sticks. I only paid about 100 bucks for this head. I’d like to upgrade in the future.
Thanks for the info. I’ll look into both of these Richard.
Great post Richard - really good to get your thoughts on each piece of the arsenal ;-) I must do this to someday …..
Best wishes,
Jon
PS That 85mm is still whispering quietly to me!
Jon: yes, you have a very different kit and I’d look forward to a post about it. Frankly, I’m not sure the 85 L is for you, it’s an interesting lens but quite specialized and for the types of things you do I’d go for something longer, like the 135 L.
thanks for this info it is great to see what tools you use to create your art.
Well, Edward, as you know, I like the tools as much as the art.
Richard,
While the Built in EOS Dust Cleaning System is a great added advantage it does not handle wet dust all that well.
Its just one preventive measure and one small step away from trouble. I did get dust on my sensor several times for all the dumb ass things i did, like for example switching lenses many a times on a highway etc.,
I would honestly say that the EOS integrated cleaning system is a means of keeping safe from dry light floating dust that could be shaken of the filter pass screen. All other dust stay put where they are.
This is the primary reason that drove me to get my second 400D body.
I haven’t changed lenses and i haven’t had dust on sensor in times now, hee hee :)
Dilip: What will you do when you do get dust on the sensor that you can’t get off? Will you do a wet cleaning yourself or send it to Canon?
[...] here for [...]
Nice camera gear. What about camera bag? What model you use for your gear?
I have two bags:
Lowepro Micro Trekker 200 (smaller)
Lowepro Mini Trekker AW (bigger)
I also have a smaller Lowepro bag that will hold just camera and two lenses.
I’m not super happy about any of these but until I find better ones they work fine.
The larger one will carry a tripod but the way it attaches isn’t great. The smaller one will too but only strapped to the bottom which makes walking harder.
Hi Richard!
I love your work on Flickr. I’m currently struggling to decide between the 35L or the 50L. Have you played much with the latter? I just sold my 50 1.4 because I was not pleased with its performance wide open…even stopped down a bit, sharpness wasn’t always there. Definitely not dependable like my Sigma 30mm 1.4 or 85mm 1.8. I love my Sigma–the focal length being much like a 50mm on my 30D. But it won’t work on a full-frame camera, which is in my future. This makes me think that I might like the 50L, but I’m wary because I’ve read good reviews and not so good ones. Thoughts?
Thanks,
Ali
Ali: Thanks for the kind words about my work.
The 35 L is considered one of the best lenses Canon makes. It is undisputed, no one questions this, and I must say, it’s my favorite lens. It was my fav on my 20D and it’s even better on the 5D.
The 50 L is also a great lens but is less highly reviewed. Many people don’t compare these two but do compare the 50 L with the 85 L, another very fast lens at f/1.2. I have the 85 L and it’s quite an amazing lens although less versatile than the 35 L.
I’d go with the 35 L for sure, it’s a winner and a great focal length on either sensor.
Hope this helps. Feel free to ask more, I’m glad to help.
Richard,
You have quite a nice collections of mainly prime lenses, I found you thru Err 99 post. I’m not a photography student, but I taking my first class this summer as a hobby. I’ve gotten 40D and 70-200mm already and a 50mm f/1.8 from Amazon is on it way. I have a quick question, Do you recommend 1.4 Extender or 2.0 Extender? I do understand I will lose a few more stop on 2.0 Extender. As a beginner perspective the longer the lens the better but does it worth it to lose couple more stops? I think the works I like is Macro and Portrait, maybe some Landscape.
Mark: I’ve got the 1.4x as you know and it’s been wonderful. No loss of quality at all and 1 stop of light.
The 2x is less well reviewed in that there supposedly is some image quality loss and you lose 2 stops of light, which can be a problem depending on what and when you’re shooting.
I have to make a change in my gear post because I’ve sold my 85mm f/1.2 L and bought a 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS.
Did you buy the f/4 or f/2.8 version of the 70-200? If the f/4, know that the 1.4x extender is going to drop the light to f/5.6. Not a big deal but as you drop more, you’ll want to consider a tripod.
You’ll love that fast 50mm lens Mark, it’s a humdinger.
Thank you for the quick respond,
I’m sorry to hear you have gotten the 85mm f/1.2 go, mine is f/2.8 version.
If you ever have to sell one of your lenses again, please consider me as a buyer and a big discount :), I think I’ll go for the 1.4 Extender. I will come back as I’m new to this and would love to hear your expieriences opinion.
Mark: It’s not a problem. My gear is in very good shape and I can almost always sell it for close to what I bought it for so not much money loss and it’s sort of like having a cheap rental to see if I’ll actually use the lens.
Yes, I think you’ll be happy with the 1.4x extender, it’s a useful tool.
Of course, if you get hooked on long lenses you should also consider the 300mm f/4 L. It’s a fantastic lens too.
Richard, what about dust remove? what you use ?
Gedas: I use a rocket blower and for wet cleaning I use Sensor Swabs and Eclipse cleaning fluid.
Richard, how much coast right now 5D in your place? I check B&H price $ 1,899.95 thats right ?
Gedas: Yes, that’s what it would cost me to buy a 5D right now. If you use B&H, it will support this site if you first click on the B&H banner on the sidebar. I’m an affiliate for them and that will give me a small percentage of sales generated that way. Costs you no more, give a very small amount to me to pay for this site.
Not sure if you want to use B&H from where you are but if you can, that would be great. Thanks and if you get a 5D let me know.
I don’t know yet, but today something in my head say to me “Gedas you need 5D!” :) yes, I let you know when I buy it, but first maybe you tell me about 5D II when it comes? what is price, maybe 5D price go down?
Gedas: The price will always go down and then, it will be replaced. The replacement, which is due in the fall, will be $2500 or more. It may or may not be a better camera than the current 5D, and, how much of what it will have do you really need? The 5D is on sale right now and that sale will continue for a while so you have plenty of time to figure it out.
My friend Scott just bought one and he’s in heaven. He had a 300D so this was a bit step for him and he and I talked about it for a few months. He went for it and he’s quite happy.
For you, more than price, the issue is, do you want this camera. If yes, then price is almost irrelevant as it’s a good price right now for what it is.
Richard
On the e99 section you mentioned you were going to hire 17-40mm L and another lens a few weeks ago. What did you decide?
Will be most interested to know.
Bruce, thanks for remembering and asking.
I rented three lenses (big spender):
Canon EF 17-40 f/4L, Sigma 12-24mm f/4.5-5.6 EX DG, and the Canon 180mm f/3.5L Macro.
The two wide zooms are great and work well but after using them both wider than 24 I felt like I was less interested in going there with my photography and my 24-70 has 24mm covered quite well. So, while I liked both lenses, I didn’t buy either.
I ended up buying, using, then returning the 180 macro. Not because it’s a bad lens, it’s a great lens, but because it’s big and heavy and my 100mm f/2.8 macro is good enough for me.
So, in the end, I did nothing. And there you have it.
It’s not like I’m searching for the single perfect lens, it doesn’t exist and I know it, but I thought a wider lens would be useful for landscapes. In fact, I’m sure it would be, but 24mm on a full frame camera, for me, is plenty wide. And, I have a very high quality 35mm f/1.4 L prime for times when I don’t need to go quite as wide but need higher IQ.
I’m also much more attracted to primes than zooms. I’m no pixelpeeper, it’s not IQ, it’s speed and light weight. I like to put a lens on my camera and walk around all day with it, seeing the world through its viewpoint and adjusting how I think about making images. Zooms seem to counter that. The 24-70 is an exception as it does the work of many lenses, in some cases better than the primes in that range.
Hope that helps, let me know what you were thinking of getting.
Richard
It was mainly curiosity in that these were 2 lens that I considered when looking at new standard and wide replacements for 18-55 mm kit with my 350D(XT?) I finished up buying 24-105 f4 (my wife thinks this is the lens with the camera) and Sigma 10-22 as whilst I had consider the short comongs with APSC sensor I could not get anything like wide enough on hol on the Nile inside temples. I felt that for the number of times i would need ultra wide I could not justify an extra £100 ($200+) for the Canon 10-22.
Cost is a big factor given that photography is a hobby that I enjoy rather than excel.
Bruce: I totally understand the justifying cost thing. I’m lucky, my wife thinks that a happy husband is part of the justification and so… whatever it takes!
You’re right, on a cropped sensor one’s choices for going wide are more limited. I’ve heard very good things about the Sigma 10-20, a number of excellent photographers I watch use it.
Hello again, today I purchase a Lowepro Micro Trekker 200(from ebay), I want it wash with watching machine, what you about that?
Gedas: It’s a great little bag and very useful.
I don’t see a problem washing it in a machine. Not too much soap and air dry it, no dryer.