Surfwise
Wednesday, May 14th, 2008
I was listening to On Point today and the second hour was about a new documentary coming out called Surfwise.
Surfwise is about Dorian “Doc” Paskowitz. a successful doctor who dropped out to surf. Along the way he marries and fathers nine children (eight boys and a girl) and they all live in a 24 foot camper and travel around surfing and living in the moment, attemping to live healthy and happy lives and of course, surfing.
Many people who have never surfed and don’t know much about it need to understand that for some people, surfing is life and while this is an extreme example it’s not outside the norm of the surfing culture.
Amazon will be selling the DVD in July: Surfwise DVD.
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What a great looking film! Look forward to seeing that :-)
Simple, enjoyable life, without the modern day distractions and stresses….. could we do it? I think I could…..
It was a bit like that when I was in Asia back in 93-94. I just lived with my rucksack, sun cream and not much else. Looking back, it was VERY relaxed and I felt pretty good!
Jon, I’m quite sure I could never live like that. Even when I was closer to living like that I had a tough time doing it. When I was in college I spent almost every summer living in my VW bus in Yosemite valley. I was a serious climber and climbing is much like surfing: it’s a lifestyle. However, the telling fact is that I took a shower every day, and when I wasn’t on a multi day climb I spent afternoons reading the newspaper and having tea and cookies (free) in the large living room of the Awahnee Hotel, the fanciest hotel in The Valley. It seems nomadic living was not it for me even though I did it.
All of that said, I think this story is fascinating if for nothing else, to see how this family turned out. The two boys who were in the interview (now middle aged men) sounded like they turned out great.
Many ways to raise a kid, one not necessarily better than another.
Surf’s up!